Medha Khasgiwale
Vasant Limaye
Modern 'Kon Tiki' voyage
Had an unforgettable voyage down from Roha to Rewdanda on a boat, with fabulous friends, food, and participated in a celebration that was unprecedented.
The riot of colors, the festivities, the gumption of this fishermen community was truly exemplary. It had the fragrance of a causeless, spontaneity. A celebration, that actually reflected their attitude in life and transcended mundane ritualism. They had an uncanny ability to mutate a traditional ritual into a festive event, that truly fostered joy and cheer.
I was blissfully unaware of this annual boat race that was part of tradition and legacy of these fishing villages. Since historic times, these villagers traditionally carried their Mother Goddess ( Ekvira) devi from their coastal village up the Sahyadri, in a palanquin to the Ekvira Temple in Karla, ( near Lonavala) which was a formidable journey.
The 1st leg of this journey though, was on water between Agrav,a coastal village from where the Goddess hailed. It is her maiden home, or ( Maaher). This leg of the journey ends at Sudakoli. Traditionally a number of sailboats loaded with the people, the palkhi and the provisions, set sail from Agrav, just a day after Gudi Padwa. They landed at Sudakoli and from here they walked or hired bullock carts enroute to Karla. The entire journey took about 6-8 days. The last leg of the return journey was again this same stretch involving boat rides. By the time they were on this last stretch, they were almost out of supplies and were eager to reach home. This desperation to get home was tweaked to into a competition and thus was born this race. In those days, they used boats with masts and this tradition continues to this day.
As we boarded the boat at a small jetty just ahead of Roha, the river was a beautiful serene expanse, lined on both sides by swaying palms. The boat ride was a pleasure, gliding along seamlessly into the horizon, towards the inviting ocean.
After about 20 minutes, we started catching glimpses of the masts of the competing boats and smaller colorful dots, that were the smaller motor boats in which the locals were cheering their participants.
In the next few minutes, we entered a zone of colors, unbridled celebration and an ambience of festivities.
There were close to about 75 boats, all with drums, trumpets, whistles and total merry making. The fishermen community dance with a fluid aesthetic that shimmers and undulates, very much like their prey. The pulsating music, the tanned complexions, their colourful attire, abolee gajras anointing the ladies plaited hair, and the gaiety and abandon of their folk music, that is a shade garrulous with an unmistakeable flirtatious note. Their demeanor had a rapturous touch to it, and the free flowing alcohol complemented and fanned the embers of their passion for life. Their mindset was totally centered in the 'here and now'.
The boats with the masts, that were competing had a color code and about 20 members navigating the vessel in their team colors. What a moment. It really dissolved all the mundane trials and tribulations of our punishing urban routines.
Sharing those moments with my friends.
Thanks Vasanta for having us on this incredibly journey of celebrating Life.
Dr. Deepak Ranade
Vasant Limaye
Modern 'Kon Tiki' voyage
Had an unforgettable voyage down from Roha to Rewdanda on a boat, with fabulous friends, food, and participated in a celebration that was unprecedented.
The riot of colors, the festivities, the gumption of this fishermen community was truly exemplary. It had the fragrance of a causeless, spontaneity. A celebration, that actually reflected their attitude in life and transcended mundane ritualism. They had an uncanny ability to mutate a traditional ritual into a festive event, that truly fostered joy and cheer.
I was blissfully unaware of this annual boat race that was part of tradition and legacy of these fishing villages. Since historic times, these villagers traditionally carried their Mother Goddess ( Ekvira) devi from their coastal village up the Sahyadri, in a palanquin to the Ekvira Temple in Karla, ( near Lonavala) which was a formidable journey.
The 1st leg of this journey though, was on water between Agrav,a coastal village from where the Goddess hailed. It is her maiden home, or ( Maaher). This leg of the journey ends at Sudakoli. Traditionally a number of sailboats loaded with the people, the palkhi and the provisions, set sail from Agrav, just a day after Gudi Padwa. They landed at Sudakoli and from here they walked or hired bullock carts enroute to Karla. The entire journey took about 6-8 days. The last leg of the return journey was again this same stretch involving boat rides. By the time they were on this last stretch, they were almost out of supplies and were eager to reach home. This desperation to get home was tweaked to into a competition and thus was born this race. In those days, they used boats with masts and this tradition continues to this day.
As we boarded the boat at a small jetty just ahead of Roha, the river was a beautiful serene expanse, lined on both sides by swaying palms. The boat ride was a pleasure, gliding along seamlessly into the horizon, towards the inviting ocean.
After about 20 minutes, we started catching glimpses of the masts of the competing boats and smaller colorful dots, that were the smaller motor boats in which the locals were cheering their participants.
In the next few minutes, we entered a zone of colors, unbridled celebration and an ambience of festivities.
There were close to about 75 boats, all with drums, trumpets, whistles and total merry making. The fishermen community dance with a fluid aesthetic that shimmers and undulates, very much like their prey. The pulsating music, the tanned complexions, their colourful attire, abolee gajras anointing the ladies plaited hair, and the gaiety and abandon of their folk music, that is a shade garrulous with an unmistakeable flirtatious note. Their demeanor had a rapturous touch to it, and the free flowing alcohol complemented and fanned the embers of their passion for life. Their mindset was totally centered in the 'here and now'.
The boats with the masts, that were competing had a color code and about 20 members navigating the vessel in their team colors. What a moment. It really dissolved all the mundane trials and tribulations of our punishing urban routines.
Sharing those moments with my friends.
Thanks Vasanta for having us on this incredibly journey of celebrating Life.
Dr. Deepak Ranade
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